It started in 1978 at a contest run by Tom Currens mom. From there I was hooked and went on to win 3 professional events and numerous titles like amateur west coast champion two years running. This all led to coaching, judging and running my own little events and surfing world. Quite the fun, quite the learning experience, and richness filled with many friends from around the globe.
I still try to get in the water as much as possible, and do some turns that would be reckoned legitimate. But it's all relative, and my expectations have needed to become simple due to age, where and how often I get decent waves. Just being out in the water surrounded by beauty has to be enough.